EVO X Clutch install

Like everything else with your Evo X, the clutch needs to be maintained. Other than maintenance, you have a custom clutch that you want to install to feel and look more distinguishable. We can help ya shift into a different gear! In case you aren’t aware already, installing an Evo X clutch can be difficult. It’s recommended that you have an additional person available to help. Aside from the clutch master cylinder upgrade kit, you’ll need a qt. of DOT 3 (or 4) brake fluid, 12-24 in vacuum hose, and cup (for system-bleeding).

1.		Ensure that the car’s off. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery using a 10 mm deep socket wrench, all the while wearing approved gloves because…...well…...safety first!
2.		Using a 12 mm socket ratchet wrench, remove the nut of the positive distribution center (under the hood). Afterwards, remove the power cable.
3.		Now, it’s time to remove the air-box. And, when you can, unplug the mass airflow connector and remove the mass airflow housing.
4.		Next, remove the blowoff valve and pipe. Be sure that you’re distant from the BOV as you’re removing the hose clamps. Do so using a 10mm socket wrench.
5.		Refer to the engine control unit. Unscrew the bolts that are between the electrical junction block and ECU. Then, undo the bolt that’s on the strut/shock tower.
6.		With extra handling and care, remove the mounting plate of the ECU. It will be still be attached all the while. Disconnect the two electrical connectors and, with care again, set aside =).
7.		Refer to the boost control solenoid and power harness. You’ll be removing those. This includes the BCS bracket and assembly. In total, there should be two 12 mm bolts (on fender) and a nut.for you to unscrew.
7.		Focus on the BCS assembly. Remove the two 10 mm bolts. Afterwards, disconnect the two electrical connectors and whatever vacuum lines are there. Next, remove that 12 mm nut on the strut/shock tower for removing the power distr. bracket assembly.
7.		Don’t remove all, but only a few, of the power distr. assembly harness clips. This is so that it’s a foldaway! Seriously though, you’ll be folding the bracket assembly forward and towards the front of the vehicle.
8.		Now, the moment you’ve been waiting for! That time has finally arrived to begin working on exchanging the clutch. There will be some prying and pulling involved here. Start off with removing the metal clips that are holding down the clutch line. They’re recognizable by their horseshoe shape. Carefully pry and pull upwards
8.		Carefully pull back, and upwards, on the clutch line once you undo the horseshoe-shaped metal clips. Note that one of these will be re-used.
8.		Using a small phillips screwdriver or pick, remove the clutch line from the master cylinder. Move the clip out of the end of it far enough for you to be able to remove the clutch line. The line will simply pull out.
9.		Focusing on the transmission, remove the hard metal line from it. Now, remove the bolt that’s holding it down to the slave cylinder.
10.		You’ve done enough work from the outside. Now, get into the car and cool off…….kinda…...You’ll be removing the plastic arm from the ball that’s on the clutch pedal assembly. Have a screwdriver handy in case you need to pry it off, although the plastic arm snaps.
11.		Refer to the power cable that’s on the back of the strut tower. Locate the two plastic harness clips that are retaining the power cable, and remove them via a small screwdriver.
12.		Work on the master cylinder now. Yay! It can be removed by turning it 90 degrees clockwise. When the time comes, pull it straight out, then upwards carefully. If removing it from the engine pay isn’t working out for you, then try working it from the inside of the vehicle by tapping on one of the ears of the cylinder counter-clockwise. Have a helper press on the plastic arm from the inside of the car to make some space between the firewall. Ensure that you have a cloth or rag to absorb any fluid that may accompany the master cylinder.
13.		Now, remove the attached reservoir line by pulling it away from the master cylinder.
14.		There’s a rubber firewall seal somewhere around the master cylinder. Remove it! And, set aside. You’ll be re-using that.
15.		Time to install the top banjo assembly. Ensure that you have the following in order: a dowty seal (can be recognized through metal w/ rubber interior) under the bolt head, banjo fitting, and copper crush washer. Reapply the rubber firewall seal you previously removed to your new master cylinder.
16.		Reassemble the stock master setup by aligning the top reservoir banjo fitting and, using a 9/16 wrench, tighten to the point where the copper crush washer is…...crushed! Crush it to aluminum threading. Note: Don’t over-tighten.
17.		Now, align the end banjo fitting. Ensure that you have a copper crush washer between both the banjo bolt and fitting, and both the banjo fitting and cylinder housing. Then, using a 14 mm wrench, tighten. Next, using an open-end wrench, attach the straight end of the stainless braided clutch line.
18.		Using the supplied spring clamp, install the stock reservoir hose on top of the banjo fitting.
19.		You’ll be installing the new master cylinder through the firewall with both lines attached all the while. First, ensure that the new master cylinder doesn’t have the threaded ring installed. Handle the power cable and move it out and up away. Slide the new master cylinder in and next to the reservoir. Ensure that the new master cylinder is close to the hole that’s in the firewall.
20.		With the assistance of a second person, guide and align the new master cylinder from the interior of the vehicle, while one of you do the same out in the engine bay. Don’t push the new master cylinder all the way in immediately. To accomplish this, start with the threaded ring on the cylinder. Then, carefully guide the cylinder through the firewall while utilizing the ring. Utilizing the holes in the ring and an allen key (or some other “90-degree” tool), tighten the ring. Then tighten the new master cylinder to the clutch pedal assembly. Make sure that it’s tightened fully. Thread ball receptacle to adjust length of arm to where it meets the pedal assembly ball as closely as possible. Pop the ball’s receptacle (ontop of the ball) and tighten the nut that’s up against the receptacle.
21.		Believe it or not, but we’re almost done! Install the stainless clutch line to the transmission bracket. Reinstall horseshoe clip after. Using a small or medium-sized hammer, tap the horseshoe clip in place.
22.		With the already existing 12 mm bolt on the tranny, attach the insulated metal clamp (already supplied as well) to it.
23.		Install “10 mm inverted flare to -3AN adapter” inside the slave cylinder. Tighten it using a 9/16 box-end wrench. Then, attach the braided line to slave cylinder. Ensure that the attachment is tightened.
24.		Time to system-bleed! Add fluid to the reservoir if neeeded. Using a vacuum bleeder, suck up all air from the system. Pry the slave cylinder against the motor and arm with a bar if it gets stuck. Inspect all lines and check for leaks, as well as clearances. Line clearances should be reasonable. Lines shouldn’t be rubbing against one another. Reconnect the lines by working backwards, starting from step 6. Remember to have the plastic clips that hold the power wire clamped. Also, reconnect both battery terminals. Aaaaaaaand you’re done!