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Clutch & Flywheel Install

There is no denying that the stock Evo clutches are weak. Replacing them with an upgraded version that has higher torque holding capacity is usually necessary for modded Evos or those that see track time. The ACT clutch we are installing here fits the bill perfectly for Evos that are making up to 500 FT-LBS of torque and are smooth enough for daily use. If you are an avid DIYer, you may be thinking about adding an Evo clutch install to your list. This is really one install that you should contemplate having done professionally. Even with much experience installing clutchs in AWDs, this was a somewhat humbling experience. It was done the "hard way" (on the ground using jacks and jack stands) like many enthusiasts would in their own garages. It was far from "fun" and took much longer than expected. What you will see in this write-up is the nuts & bolts of the install. What you won't see is the aggravation, bloody knuckles and overflowing Swear Jar. We certainly don't want to scare anyone, but consider yourself warned! If at all possible, install a clutch/flywheel using a lift, air tools and have friends on-hand or at least on-call for the critical moments. Before beginning, you should have on-hand or locally available: * Slide hammer (axle or dent puller) * Extra floor jacks and jack stands * 1-1/4"socket for axle nuts * Pry bar(s) * Machine or service shop for flywheel resurfacing (if not replacing the flywheel) * Replacement tranny/transfer case fluids * Replacement coolant (optional) We cannot stress enough that it is imperative to properly support the car to work safely. The car will not be sitting on either of the front wheels, the engine will be held by a single motor mount and a 150+ pound transmission will need to be taken off. That is a lot of heavy stuff just waiting to fall, so do this at your own risk. Work smart and be safe.

1. If you are lucky enough to be using a lift, skip this step ;) Park the car in a location with plenty of room around the front and sides to work and where it can be safely left, for days, if necessary. Do not attempt to do this on any type of incline, loose pavement/gravel, etc. Jack up the front end and place jack stands under the frame rails on each side of the car. You will want a minimum 15" of clearance under the front clip to allow room to slide the tranny out from under the car. That is a minimum clearance required if the tranny is on the ground (ie. no jacks under it). With the jack stands in place, remove both front wheels and slide them under the car behind the jack stands. This serves as both a safety net in case the car falls, as well as a convenient resting spot for the exhaust system after the downpipe is removed (some cardboard across the top of the wheels will keep them from getting scratched). TECH TIP: in hindsight, it seems sensible to raise all four corners of the car on jack stands to provide adequate clearance while maintaining a level car. With the front end raised considerably higher than the rear, the angle induces some issues that might otherwise be avoidable, namely the engine/tranny leaning towards the firewall when the mounts are removed. There will be little clearance as it is and fighting to keep the engine/tranny as far forward as possible while lowering the transmission will be compounded with them wanting to move backwards. With a completely level car (as on a lift), the engine/tranny should all but lower straight down, avoiding some potential hang ups and clearance issues.
2. Under the hood, everything on top of the transmission needs to be removed: * Airbox/intake, MAS hose/pipe and BOV; * Upper IC pipe; * Battery and battery tray * Shifter cables; * Clutch line; * All sensor harnesses and loom retainers on the tranny; * Lower radiator hose (optional) The airbox/intake, MAS hose/pipe, BOV and upper IC pipe removal should be straight-forward. See the Intake and Intercooling sections of Evo Tech if you really need to, BUT if you need to look up any of that, you should definitely NOT be installing a clutch or flywheel!
3. With the intake tract removed, we will pick up with the battery removal and work from there... Obviously, remove the battery tie down and disconnect the battery cables from the battery. Remove the battery and set it in a clean location on cardboard or wood. Be careful of any leaking acid while working with the battery.
4. With the battery removed, take the battery tray out. Two 12mm bolts and two 12mm nuts hold it in (top pic). Unsnap all loom connectors attached to the battery (bottom pic), including the clutch line holder on the back of the tray (not shown in pic).
5. Now pretty much anything and everything connected to the transmission needs to be removed. Let's first get the back-up lamp switch, clutch line and slave cylinder out of the way. Simply unplug the switch harness. Rather than unclip the clutch line from the bracket, unbolt the entire bracket from the tranny (13 FT-LBS). Two 12mm bolts (13 FT-LBS) hold the slave cylinder to the tranny. The rod has pressure on it, so be careful when removing the bolts. With the slave cylinder removed, lay the cylinder on top of the valve cover or intake manifold to get it out of the way. NOTE: the clutch line does not need to be disconnected from the slave cylinder.
6. Remove the clips holding the shifter cable ends to the actuator. Using needlenose pliers, pull the hook of the clip away from the dowel and slide the clip out. Put the clip and the washer from the top of the bushing in a safe place. The lower shift cable has the exact same retention setup (top pic).
7. The cables can removed from the bracket by simply pulling them up and out of their clips (middle pic). The clips should be replaced according to Mitsu, but we've had no problems reusing them. Also remove the two loom holders connected to the shifter cable bracket.
8. Finally, remove the two 12mm bolts (13 FT-LBS) holding the bracket to the transmission (bottom pic).
9. With the shifter cable bracket removed, we can now access the VSS buried in the back of the tranny. This harness has a clip holding it to the sensor, so first remove the 10mm bolt (34 IN-LBS) holding the sensor in (top pic).
10. Carefully remove the sensor. You may need to wiggle it slightly to loosen it from its seal. Once removed, you can remove the clip holding the harness on (bottom pic). After the clip is removed and harness disconnected, reinstall the sensor in the tranny and bolt it back down to avoid any debris entering the case while removing the transmission.
11. Time to get under the car. If the lower engine cover is still on, remove it, along with the 2 tie bars. To drain the transmission, remove the 17mm fill plug (careful not to loose the aluminum washer). With a drain pan under the drain plug (24mm), remove it. The drain plug is magnetic to collect any shavings, so be sure to clean it off prior to reinstalling. Both the fill and drain plugs are 23 FT-LBS.
12. While the tranny fluid is trickling out, remove the downpipe. The spring bolts holding the downpipe to the O2 housing are 14mm. The connection to the converter or test pipe will vary depending what you have ;)
13. With the downpipe removed, take the starter shield off by removing the two 8mm bolts and two 8mm nuts (top pic). The 8mm bolts and nuts are torqued to 44 IN-LBS. Disconnect the positive cable by removing the 12mm nut (111 IN-LBS) and disconnect the ground harness by pushing the tab and sliding it off (middle pic). This can be done after the starter is removed, but be careful not to drop the starter with it connected. Remove the 14mm bolt (23 FT-LBS) holding the starter to the tranny case.
14. Digging in to the Walbro install kit, grab the new pump filter and the small retaining ring and install the filter onto the Walbro pump. Set the filter in place and push the retaining ring on as best as you can (just so the ring doesn't fall off). Place a 5.5mm or equivalent socket over the retaining ring and gently tap it on until it sits flat against the filter housing.
14. The other 14mm bolt (23 FT-LBS) holding the starter to the tranny case is located on the driver side of the mount (bottom pic). When both 14mm bolts are removed, the starter will be free, so have a hand on it...it's heavier than it looks.
15. By this time, the tranny should be drained. Though it is not necessary, we do recommend draining the transfer case. Some fluid will be lost from it one way or another and if you've never changed it, now is the prime opportunity. Reinstall the fill and drain plugs in the tranny (hand tight) and then slide the drain pan under the transfer case drain. Remove the 17mm fill plug and then the 24mm drain plug (both 23 FT-LBS) from the transfer case. Like the transmission, the transfer case drain plug is equipped with a magnet (though much smaller). After the transfer case finishes draining, clean any shavings off of the draing plug magnet and then reinstall the fill and drain plugs (hand tight).
16. Moving on to the axles, we are showing the driver side here, the passenger side is the same. Note the passenger side axle does not necessarily need to be removed from the hub, however, it is much easier to get the axle off of the transfer case with it removed from the wheel hub. Unbend and remove the cotter pin from the axle. An impact gun will make short work of the 1-1/4" axle nut (167 FT-LBS).
17. TECH TIP: If you do not have air tools, you will need to lock the rotor in place to break the nut loose without spinning the axles. The easiest way to do this is to simply have someone sit in the car and hold brake pedal. If that is not enough grip, you can either purchase a "special tool" (bottom pic) or make your own. Basically, a piece of aluminum or steel stock long enough to bolt through 2 wheel studs and then rest against the floor is what you are looking to make.
18. If you followed the service manual, you would end up pretty much disassembling the entire wheel hub and front suspension to get the axle out, so here's the shortcut:
19. Remove the 17mm lower ball joint bolt (80 FT-LBS) circled in the top picture. Removing the two 12mm bolts (29 FT-LBS) that hold the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm will make this a little easier to pull the ball joint out of the knuckle, but is not completely necessary (middle pic).
20. Use a pry bar to pull the lower control arm down and the ball joint shaft out of the knuckle (bottom pic). NOTE: be extremely careful not to pry against the rubber ball joint boot. Tearing the boot may release the grease inside and even worse, expose the joint to the atmosphere, causing oxidation. The very last thing you want is that joint separating from rust while driving!
21. Before removing the axle from the hub, take out the inner wheel splash guard by removing the four plastic snap fasteners (top pic).
22. Using a piece of wood against the axle, gently tap it back out of the hub until it is loose enough to pull out by hand (middle pic). Of course, if you have a gear puller, that will work too ;)
23. Pulling the entire rotor/knuckle/strut assmebly outward will allow enough room for the axle to be freed from behind it (bottom pic). Pull the axle towards the front of the car and carefully rest it on the lower control arm. NOTE: if the axle rubs against the caliper, it can scratch the red paint. Placing a clean rag over the end of the axle is not a bad idea. Repeat the same process for the passenger side of the car.
24. To remove the passenger side axle from the car (top pic), use a pry bar and hammer head, pipe or appropriately sized board for a leverage point as shown to carefully push the axle off of the output shaft of the transfer case. A few good "pumps" on the pry bar is more effective and less likely to damage the retaining circlip than simply laying on the pry bar as hard possible.
25. Removing the driver side axle is done in a similar manner (bottom pic), however, simply wedge the pry bar against the transmission case. Place a rag between the pry bar and tranny case if you wish.
26. With the driver side axle removed, you will be looking at the output shaft (top pic). This shaft basically runs through the tranny case to connect the transfer case to the driver side front axle that was just removed. This shaft will need to come out for the transfer case to be separated from the tranmission.
27. As can be seen, an M8x1.25 bolt hole is tapped into the end of the shaft. While it is probably is possible to simply thread a bolt and washer in there for a "grabbing point" to use a pry bar on to pull the shaft out with, we had no success with that method.
28. In the end, we ended up with a $10 dent puller from the local auto parts store that had a 2.5 pound slide. Since the puller is not designed to hold a bolt, we simply welded an M8x1.25 bolt to a nut that matched the thread of the puller (middle pic). The bolt was threaded into the shaft and it was out in just 2 quick pulls (bottom pic). NOTE: If you don't happen to have a welder handy for our method, a cheap dent puller can still be used by drilling and tapping the screw holder end that comes with it to accept an M8x1.25 stud. The puller, tap and stud should all be available at your local auto parts store and the $25 it will cost to make can save a lot of time and headaches getting this shaft out.
29. Back under the car, loosen (but don't remove) the three 17mm bolts holding (all are 51 FT-LBS) the cross member to the car (top pic). The member has the two bolts seen in the front and one in the back that is not seen in the picture, but the location is circled (rear bolt is seen in bottom pic).
30. With the three bolts loose underneath, remove the 14mm bolt (39 FT-LBS) through the front motor mount (middle pic).
31. With the motor mount bolt removed, finish taking off the cross member (bottom pic).
32. If you have not done so yet from the draining, replace the fill and drain plugs in the transfer case so nothing gets inside while it's being removed or hanging around afterwards. There are six 17mm bolts (51 FT-LBS) holding the transfer case to the transmission: 3 on the bottom and 3 on the top. The three on the bottom are no problem (top pic), but the 3 on top can take some work to get to.
33. The top three bolts (middle pic) can be difficult to get leverage on to break without air tools. You can reach them from the top or the bottom, so try each to see which works better for you.
34. The bottom picture shows the forward-most two transfer case bolts from the top of the engine. Note that the 3rd bolt towards the back (the long one) is about right under the drop light.
35. With all of the transfer case bolts removed, pull the case off of the transmission. A pry bar can be used to get it started, but be careful not to hit the shafts between the transfer case and tranny. It likely won't fall out of the car (in fact you'll be lucky to get it out), but it is rather heavy and unless you want it or the oil pan scratched up, have a good hand on it when it clears the shaft and lay it down between the engine the and cross member.
36. The transfer case can "simply" be removed from the car by pulling it forward off of the drive shaft and dropping it out between the engine and cross member. Try as we might, this wasn't happening even after the motor mounts were removed and the engine pushed up and forward. It was close, but just not enough, likely because of the angle with the rear of the car on the ground. We ended up placing a jack under the t-case to hold it up, pushed it as far towards the passenger side as possible and tied it up to keep from falling back towards the tranny (middle pic).
37. NOTE: The transfer case has two o-rings on it to seal against the tranny (bottom pic). Make sure not to lose or damage either one or there will be leaks when everything is reinstalled.
38. Remove the two 10mm (19 FT-LBS) and two 14mm bolts (80 IN-LBS) holding the inspection cover to the transmission. Note there is a small run of sealant between the inspection cover and oil pan/block that may make it a little tough to pull off (top pic).
39. Remove the 14mm bolt (36 FT-LBS) holding the tranny case to the block and the 10mm bolt holding the bracket for the starter cable loom to the tranny (middle pic). After removing the bracket, you can pull the starter cables up and out of the way.
40. Remove the 14mm bolt (36 FT-LBS) holding the tranny case to the block at the rear of the block (bottom pic).
41. Place a jack under the "seam" of the transmission case and just snug up the lift arm (top pic). A transmission jack or preferably a floor jack with a tranny plate should be used.
42. Remove the 17mm nut (61 FT-LBS) from the motor mount on top of the transmission (middle pic). Once the nut is removed, use the jack under the tranny to raise it just enough for the bolt through the motor mount to be pushed out easily.
43. Likewise, remove the 14mm nut (39 FT-LBS) from the middle of the rear motor mount at the back of the tranny (bottom pic). Again, use the jack under the transmission to raise/lower the tranny until the rear motor mount bolt can be slid out easily. WARNING: with the driver side and rear mount bolts now removed, the only thing holding up the engine and tranny are the passenger side mount and the jack under the tranny!
44. With the driver side and rear mounts disconnected, the tranny can be lowered enough to remove the four 17mm bolts (35 FT-LBS) holding the driver side motor mount to the top of the transmission and pull it off. NOTE: if you did not pull the transfer case out of the and left it balancing on the cross member, lowering the engine may cause the block or oil pan to press against it or hang up on it depending on the angle of the car/engine. While lowering the engine/tranny, make sure to keep an eye on how close it comes to the transfer case. If it gets close, rearrange the position of the transfer case and/or pull the engine/tranny towards the front of the car.
45. Depending on the angle of the car/engine, the rear motor mount bracket may need to be removed to clear the cross member. There are two 17mm bolts (52 FT-LBS) holding the rear motor mount bracket to the steel plate on the tranny (bottom pic). The lower bolt can barely be seen just over the top of the VSS. These bolts need to be removed to get the aluminum mount bracket off...and they can be a pain to get to. Pull the engine/tranny as far forward as possible to access them and good luck!
46. Remove the access hole cover on the bottom of the transmission (top pic). Looking through the access hole, you can see the pressure plate and TOB (middle pic). The TOB is connected to the clutch fork which is bolted to the transmission, so the TOB has to be removed from the pressure plate before the tranny will come off.
47. The process is as simple as using a flathead screwdriver between the wedge collar and TOB, compressing the wedge collar by moving the clutch fork towards the driver side of the car ("A" position, bottom pic) and then rotating the screwdriver 90 to pop the TOB out. NOTE: move the fork to position A before inserting the screwdriver.
48. The trick is, while holding the clutch fork to A position to compress the wedge collar, by prying the TOB away from the pressure plate, that will also push the clutch fork toward the B position. It's a bit of a pain, but keep at it and it will come out.
49. There are three final bolts holding the transmission to the block (top pic). If you haven't already, detach the loom holders from the top two bolts and remove all three 14mm bolts circled (36 FT-LBS). At this time nothing should be connected to the transmission at all. Continue lowering the transmission until the front differential housing has cleared the cross member. Again, if the transfer case is still hanging around, be careful not to munch it between the block and cross member.
50. TECH TIP: A helper is great here to pull the engine/tranny forward while lowering it, but if the tranny does get stuck on the cross member, a wedge placed between the tranny and cross member works wonders. This pry bar has more than earned its keep on this install (bottom pic).
51. With the transmission low enough to clear the inner fender and slide off, place a jack with a piece of wood on top under the block to help hold up the engine. When the tranny is removed (and the jack holding it), the only thing holding the engine will be the single passenger side motor mount, so use a jack to help support the weight. Pull the transmission away from the block. This may also require some "man handling" or prying. There are alignment dowels around the bellhousing and they may need some persuasion to come out of the block. NOTE: the thin shield seen between the transmission and block does NOT come out with the transmission since it is between the block and flywheel.
52. If everything goes well, the transmission should slide right off and onto the tranny jack under it. If you do not have enough clearance under the car to pull it out with the transmission on the jack, lower the tranny jack all the way down and carefully get the tranny off the jack and onto the floor. Placing a piece of cardboard on the ground first will help the tranny slide out from under the car.
53. Time to get the stock clutch outta there! Six 12mm bolts (13 FT-LBS) hold the pressure plate to the flywheel (top pic).
54. TECH TIP: use the clutch alignment tool (already inserted) to hold the clutch disc. This will keep it from falling when the pressure plate is removed (bottom pic).
55. With the clutch disc removed, the flywheel is exposed, along with the seven 17mm bolts (98 FT-LBS) holding it to the crank, hence "7-bolt crank" (top pic).
56. If you have air tools, removing these will be a no brainer, but whether you have air tools or not, you will need a way to hold the crank/flywheel in position, either for breaking them loose without air tools or to torque the bolts for reinstall. Of course Mistu sells a special tool for this, but a DIY option is just as easy to whip up. If you have any spare flat stock laying around, it's as easy as drilling 2 holes. Drill one hole that will be threaded into a pressure plate bolt hole in the flywheel. Drill another to be bolted to one of the bellhousing bolt holes on the block. The front motor mount bolt and a socket used as a spacer works perfectly to connect it solidly to the block (middle pic).
57. NOTE: our picture of the "tool" was taken during reinstall. For flywheel bolt removal, you would want the tool bolted to the flywheel towards the bottom...it should be facing the direction the bolt is being turned so it is being "pulled" on, not pushed (bottom pic).
58. With the flywheel removed, the end of the crank is exposed (top pic). A quick pic of the ACT HDSS ("2900") clutch and Fidanza flywheel that are replacing the stock versions (bottom pic). The entire aftermarket combination is 5 pounds lighter than the stock clutch/flywheel combo and all of this weight savings is from the Fidazna flywheel.
59. NOTE: if you are not replacing the stock flywheel with a new aftermarket version, the stock flywheel should be resurfaced prior to installing a new clutch and/or clutch disc.
60. With the flywheel properly aligned to the bolt holes on the crank, hand tighten the flywheel bolts (top pic). As may have been seen in previous photos, the flywheel bolts are not symmetrically placed, so the flywheel can only be installed in one orientation. A space is left between two bolts for the alignment pin, marked in the top photo.
61. Attach the flywheel "tool" to the block and flywheel to keep it from spinning (bottom pic). Finish tightening the flywheel bolts in an alternating pattern (like wheel lug nuts) a little at a time until they are all fully seated. Torque each bolt to 98 FT-LBS and then remove the flywheel tool. NOTE: be extremely careful not to get oil or grease on the new flywheel during installation. Presumably you are installing a new clutch for better holding power and oil on the friction ring where the clutch grabs is not going to help!
62. Install the clutch disc. Note one side of the spring hub sticks out further than the other side. The "thicker" side faces away from the flywheel. Slide the clutch alignment tool through the disc and fully into the center of the flywheel (top pic).
63. Install the pressure plate over the clutch disc and alignment tool making sure that the alignment dowels on the flywheel go into the proper holes and the alignment tool holding the disc does not move (middle pic). The disc needs to be centered between the flywheel and pressure plate. Getting the tranny back on is hard enough without having to deal with trying to find a disc that is not where it's supposed to be!
64. Tighten the flywheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern a little at a time until the pressure plate is fully seated against the flywheel and then torque each bolt to 13 FT-LBS (bottom pic). Remove the clutch alignment tool.
65. To replace the TOB, the small plug on top of the tranny (top pic) needs to be knocked out. Use a socket or bolt that is similarly sized to the ID of the plug to knock it down through the bellhousing.
66. Inside the bellhousing, there is a single 12mm bolt (86 IN-LBS) holding the pivot arm for the clutch fork (middle pic). Removing this bolt will allow the pivot arm to be slid up through the hole where the plug was knocked out in the top of the tranny case. With the pivot arm out, the TOB and clutch fork can be removed to swap the TOB.
67. Prior to sliding the pivot arm out, make note of how the springs are installed so they can be reinstalled properly. Also note there are felt bushings between the springs and the clutch fork...be careful not to lose them (bottom pic).
68. With the pivot arm pulled up out of the clutch fork, pull the TOB forward off of the input shaft. Note that the arm of the clutch fork will need to be pulled through the rubber grommet at the same time.
69. Once out, the TOB simply slides right off of the arms of the fork. For those who may be concerned, the TOB included with the ACT clutch kit (right, middle pic) looks OEM to us ;) Same markings and same bushing material on the inside.
70. Prior to installing the new TOB to the clutch fork, apply fresh grease to the pivot points of the clutch fork arms where the TOB sits and a thin layer on the inside of the bushing on the fork that the pivot arm goes through. Then simply reinstall the TOB on the input shaft like it was removed: put the clutch fork arm through the rubber grommet and slide the TOB onto the input shaft (bottom pic).
71. Begin pushing the pivot arm back through the clutch fork making sure to put the springs back in correctly and that the felt bushings are between the springs and fork (top pic). Using the female end of 3/8" ratchet extension works well for pushing the pivot arm back in. Line up the bolt hole and reinstall the bolt that holds the pivot arm in place. Torque to 88 +/-17 in-lb.
72. Using a similarly sized socket or bolt, tap the brass plug back into the the tranny from the top (bottom pic). Double-check that the arms of the springs are behind their tabs and you are now ready to put everything back together!
73. Since the process of reinstalling is simply the reverse of the removal, we won't repeat all the steps, but we will offer tips for some steps getting it back together. Use the removal steps above for noted torque specs. Getting the tranny back in is quite likely the most difficult part of the entire install. Having some helpers around for this part would be a very good idea. NOTE: the TOB will seat itself into the pressure plate when the clutch fork is actuated for the first time. Tip 1: use 2 jacks under the transmission for load leveling. This will allow the transmission to be angled to match that of the engine.
74. When raising the transmission back up, the input shaft must go through the middle of the pressure plate and into the clutch disc (duh). Be careful not to knock off the wedge collar with the input shaft or you will be dropping the tranny again.
75. Tip 2: Pulling the rubber vents on the top and front of the tranny (top pic) will make it easier to watch the input shaft relative to the wedge collar. Use the front vent hole to shine light in and look through the top vent hole to guide the tranny (bottom pic).
76. Once the input shaft is safely through the middle of the wedge collar (top pic), use the multiple jacks to match the angle of the transmission to the engine (bottom fuzzy pic). With the input shaft safely through the wedge collar and the tranny aligned to the engine, "all" that's left to do now is slide the tranny up to the block. The input shaft has to go through the clutch disc AND the splines need to be matched up with it for that to happen.
77. Unforunately, on jacks, the chances of getting it in are slim no matter how closely matched the angles are. It will probably require picking up the tranny by hand the last few inches to "feel around" for it. The tranny is far from a lightweight, so multiple people may be required or a single person who can safely lift 150+ pounds :) Tip 3: If you feel that the alignment is correct, but the splines aren't lined up, a little turn of the crank pulley with a 1/2" drive will move the flywheel, clutch disc (and its splines) and pressure plate. There is no grey area here...the tranny will either slide all the way to the block or it won't go on at all. Just keep trying until it's on. Good luck and remember, patience is a virtue.
78. Tip 4: the slide hammer can be used to reinsert the output shaft through the tranny on the driver side (the same one it is used to pull), but a bolt can be threaded into the end and used as a contact point to gently tap the shaft it. Do NOT hit the shaft directly. When done, make sure the shaft is properly locked in placed by pulling on the shaft...it should not come out! Tip 5: the axles can be reinstalled by hand. When properly aligned, they can simply be pushed in and seated. When done, make sure the circlips are seated and the axles locked onto the shafts by giving them a good tug...they should not come off.
79. Once everything is properly back together: - Fill the transfer case - Fill the transmission - Adjust the clutch pedal Now that wasn't so bad, right?! Follow manufacturer specs for any break-in period on the particular clutch being installed, but generally, no less than 400-500 hundred "street" miles should be on the clutch prior to "getting on it" or launching.

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