EVO Performance Parts
Home My Account Checkout What's New? EVO TECH

Live Help

EVO X Turbo Install

The turbo is, as you may know, kind of a big deal. And, you know that rule which involves getting aftermarket parts? That rule especially applies to the turbo on your EVO X. Now, there are a handful of things that youíll be needing if you want to install that new turbocharger you bought for your sweetness, and the turbo install may take some time. But, it will pay off in the end =). Things that youíll be needing are a tool box that contains screwdrivers of various sizes, socket extensions of various sizes, ratchet and metric sockets of 10/12/14/17/19/22 mm, 10/12/14/17/199 mm wrenches, hacksaw or cut-off wheel (for trimming), de-burring tool or filer, ruler/calipers/scaler, torque wrench, needle nose pliers, a ďwobblyĒ or universal joint, and two jack stands or lift. Anti-seize paste and protective eyewear may come in handy too! If youíre not as tech savy, then have your manufacturerís manual ready.

1. Ensure that the carís off. Using a 10 mm socket or wrench, disconnect both battery terminals. Place them at a safe location (somewhere thatís away from where youíre working and on a workstation of some sort). Ensure that wherever youíre placing the battery terminals is clear.
2. Underneath the vehicle, there should be some plastic compartment covers. Using a prying tool or a flat blade screwdriver, pop the center portion of the round plastic clip and use your hand to pull it out. Do this on the plastic compartment cover thatís in the center and most to the rear under the car. Work on the front cover (on the passengerís side) now. Undo the plastic clip to this one and the two bolts that are retaining the cover.
3. Drain engine coolant into a coolant pan or something similar. This can be done by opening the drain valve on the passengerís side and front of the radiator. To speed up the process of draining engine coolant, open the radiator cap using pliers.
4. Pull upwards on the upper plastic engine cover until it pops right off.
5. There are compressor outlet elbow hoses that are complete with an adapter tube between them. Using a suitable screwdriver, remove those hoses, and undo the hose clamps. Set the clamps aside, for theyíll be reused. Then, remove the compress inlet hose thatís complete with a rubber elbow & bypass valve. Undo the MAF sensor clamp (sole grey clamp), bypass clamp (next to a very large and fat connector), bypass valve signal line clamp (one thatís helping retain a hose/tube), and finally the turbo inlet elbow clamp (slightly deep inside, flashlight may be required to see it). You may also need pliers to complete this step. Set the parts that youíve just removed aside, for theyíll be reused as well.
6. Unscrew the strut tower brace bar.using a 14 mm socket or wrench. There should be six nuts altogether, three on each side of the car. There should also be two bolts in the center of the strut tower brace bar. Set the brace bar aside once itís removed. Move on to the cowl heat shield. This can be found onto the firewall, behind the cylinder head, and underneath the cowl overhang. Remove it using a 10 mm socket or wrench. Over the river and through the woods! Set these parts aside as well.
7. The exhaust manifold and downpipe are being covered by a heat shield. Bolts are retaining the heat shield. Unbolt the heat shield using a 10 mm socket/wrench and set aside.
8. Take out those pliers, because itís time to undo some more clamps. Youíll be undoing two, two hose clamps, for the purpose of removing the vacuum/emission hose from the black metal compressor outlet elbow.from the wastegate actuator. Set clamps aside. Itís recommended that you somehow ďtagĒ the hose for easy assembly later on.
9. Using a 12 mm socket/wrench, undo both bolts that are retaining the gasket to the black metal compressor outlet elbow. Set parts aside.
10. Move on to the driverís side. Have a 17 mm socket/wrench handy for this step. Locate a steel bracket thatís bracing the compressor housing to the engine block. There will be two large bolts. Undo them. Set parts (and bolts) aside. Next, remove the cast aluminum inlet elbow from the compressor housing, including the gasket part, with a 12 mm socket/wrench. Save the three bolts that youíll be undoing. You may discard the inlet elbow and gasket if you wish, or store it away for resale.
11. Locate the water line (is of hard steel). Itís connected to the turboís center housingís rear, facing the firewall. Have a 10 mm and 17 mm socket/wrench handy here. Remove the water line and the banjo and mounting bolt, and copper crush washers. Also, disconnect the rubber hose (may be black) that was now once attached to the water line. Set all parts (including bolts) aside, with the exception of the copper crush washers. You wonít be needing those, because the upgrade kit provides new ones!
12. Time to work on the other hard steel water line, which is connected to the front of the turboís center housing and is closest to the engine block. Youíll be dealing with two clamps here. Use a set of pliers (have a wrench or socket ready too) to take care of those, and set them aside. Disconnect the rubber hose from the hard steel water line. Leave the water line alone after, for the time being. Set aside any bolts that you mayíve undone during this step. Ensure that theyíre organized or placed somewhere safe.
13. Have a 14 mm and 19 mm socket and extensions on-hand. When ready, go underneath the car and begin removing the front exhaust pipe thatís before the catalytic converter. Undo the 2 bolts and springs with the 14 mm socket and 12í extension. The nuts that are on the rear will require the 19 mm socket. Removing the oxygen sensorís optional. Secure the pipe to the underside of the car using zip-ties or wire if you choose to not remove the oxygen sensor. Set the nuts ní bolts aside, front exhaust pipe, and oxygen sensor (if applicable). Remain under the car for the next step and continue to have the 14 mm socket on-hand.
14. With the 14 mm socket, remove the black steel bracket thatís connected to the turbine outlet elbow, or downpipe, to the engine block. Undo both bolts. The part that youíve just removed will be reused. The next step will require you to be underneath the car again and a 10 mm socket/wrench on-hand.
15. Remove the heat shield via unbolting (3 bolts) with a 10 mm socket/wrench, which is attached to the top of the transfer case and is behind and below the turbo. Set the heat shield aside once removed. Set the other one aside as well, which can be located above the passengerís sideís inner driveshaft boot. Undo the two bolts with that 10 mm socket/wrench to remove the other heat shield.
16. Locate the large heat shield thatís covering the downpipe, above the turbo. It shares one hole with a smaller one, and both heat shields share a bolt (can be found underneath the downpipe). Undo three bolts, here, with a 14 mm socket/wrench. Set the bolts and heat shields aside. Now, while still having that 14 mm socket/wrench in-hand, remove the downpipe by undoing the four bolts and only nut thatís holding it in place with the turbine housing. Fasteners may require some penetrating oil for them to be loosened. Save the downpipe, bolts, nut(s), and washers. Gasket may also be reused. Hold onto the 14 mm socket/wrench.
17. Have the universal joint ready. Locate the small steel bracket. Itís helping connect the turbine housing to the engine block. With the 14 mm socket/wrench still in-hand, undo the bolt from the turbine housing while underneath the car. Itís right in between the driveshaft on the passengerís side and oil pan. Set the part that youíve just removed on the side, and the bolt. Have bracket remain attached to the engine block.
18. Have a 10 mm socket/wrench ready. And if you still have it in your utility belt, then great! From the engine block, locate the hard steel oil feed line. Undo the banjo bolt thatís retaining the oil feed line to the engine block from the blockís back facing the firewall on the passengerís side. Use the underside area of the water pump as a reference if need be. Undo bolts that are retaining the oil line to the engine block and compressor housing. The oil line has two tabs which the bolts will be passing through. Youíll be reusing the oil line, as well as the banjo bolt and other bolts.
19. Undo the sole bolt thatís holding down the clamp to the engine block on the turbo oil drain line and the other bolt thatís in the middle of the oil drain line, using a 10 mm socket/wrench. Then, pull the oil drain line out from the engine block, all the while leaving it connected to the turbo. Note: Monitor the o-ring. Make sure that it doesnít break, nor fall, into the oil pan or gets lost. Set the clamp bolt aside.
20. Have a 14 mm socket handy. Undo the two bolts and nuts that are retaining the turbine housing to the exhaust manifold. If those bolts and nuts are giving you trouble, then apply some penetrating oil to help them loosen. With much care, descend the turbo once itís completely unscrewed. You may place it onto the transfer case temporarily if you want. Save the two bolts youíve just unscrewed. Monitor the turbine inlet gasket for any signs of leakage or damage. Replace the gasket if you see any.
21. Thereís even more nuts to go around in this step. But, with that 14 mm socket of yours, you wonít have to go nuts! Locate the exhaust manifold and undo the ten nuts and washers that are retaining it to the cylinder head. Thereís five ontop and five underneath. Once you can, pull the exhaust manifold in the direction of the back of the car and up out of the engine compartment. Monitor the gasket of the exhaust manifold for any signs of leakage or damage. Replace the gasket if you see any. Set aside the exhaust manifold, along with its nuts and washers.
22. That time to remove the stock turbo has come! From the top side, carefully pull the turbo out of the engine compartment. You may need to tilt and rotate it. Note how limited space the cowl/firewall and valve cover offer. If you have thick tape, then you can apply some to the aforementioned components for protection. Set aside the original components and stock turbo next to the new turbo in a clean area and not on the ground.
23. Have a 22 mm socket and set of pliers ready. Ensure that the water line and water line banjo bolt are removed, and the water lineís crush washers. Grab the new short water line and install it on the new turbo whilst using the stock banjo bolt (torque to 26-36 lb-ft) and two new copper crush washers (14 mm). Connect the rubber water hose onto the hard line to a depth of 25 mm.
24. With the 22 mm and 10 mm socket in your possession, and factory banjo bolt and two new copper crush washers (14 mm), weíll be installing the longer factory hard water line to the back of the new turboís center housing. Have the banjo bolt remain loose. Secure the water line (should be wrapped around the compressor housing outlet) using a factory bolt and torque it to 6-8 lb-ft. Return to the loose banjo bolt and tighten it to 26-36 lb-ft.
25. Have a 12 mm socket and three factory elbow bolts ready. Take the supplied large o-ring and install it onto the new compressor inlet elbow. Make sure that itís seated properly against the elbow face. Now, take the new compressor inlet elbow and install it to the compressor housing of the new turbo while making sure that itís facing upwards and the o-ring isnít pinching the housing. Torque bolts to 20-22 lb-ft.
26. With new motor oil, coat the new o-ring of the oil drain line and, with care, install the new o-ring onto the end of the new oil drain. Make sure that it isnít twisted, nor crooked, in the ring groove. Once youíre done with all of that, attach the new oil drain (and 2-bolt fiber gasket) to the turbo using the 8mm 12-point bolts that accompany it with an 8 mm 12-point socket. Torque bolts to 15-17 lb-ft. The gasket doesnít require coating of any kind.
27. Take hold of the factory oil feed line and attach it to the top of the new center housing of the new turbo using the new banjo bolt, three of the new 12 mm copper crush washers, and short steel spacer. Onto bolt, install the first crush washer. The oil line goes underneath that. Install the second crush washer underneath the oil line, then comes the short steel spacer. Finally, install the third crush washer, which goes underneath the spacer. Youíre now home free to attach what youíve just assembled to the new turbo center housing. Make sure that the crush washers remain centered and that none of them are jammed from the bolt work. Also, donít tighten the bolt for the oil inlet line.
28. Try fitting the downpipe onto the turbine housing with its factory gasket. If the downpipeís stud is too lengthy, then itís time to take out that cut-off wheel/hacksaw! Thread the nut thatís required for this installation, all the way onto the stud, and cut away! Cut the stud tilí 22 mm precisely remains sticking out from the downpipe. Using the file or de-burring tool, ďde-burrĒ the cut edge. Completely back the nut off.
29. With the water and oil lines connected to your new turbocharger, descend the turbo into the engine bay. Have the turbine housing carefully rested onto the factory turbine housing support bracket.
30. Have a 10 mm wrench handy and ensure that the o-ring is coated with oil. Weíll be having the lower end of the oil drain installed to the engine block. Be especially careful when pushing the oil drain line into the engine block. The o-ring could be sheared on if itís not aligned with the appropriate hole. Using a factory bolt, clamp the end of the oil drain. Tighten to 6-7 lb-ft.
31. Using a 14 mm socket and ten nuts, connect the exhaust manifold gasket onto the studs of the cylinder head exhaust, only if theíre removed. Install copper crush washers as well. Torque to 34-40 lb-ft.
32. Put turbine inlet gasket onto the turbing housing and bring up the turbo tilí itís aligned with manifold.and install using two factory bolts and two new stainless steel bolts that came with the upgrade kit, and a 14 mm socket. Note that each bolt uses two copper crush washers. Have them back-to-back with darker/bold holes on the top washer facing upwards and the holes on the bottom one facing downwards. Torque bolts to 21-23 lb-ft in an x-like pattern. Once you reach the torque specification, tighten additionally 60-70 degrees in a, once again, x-like pattern =).
33. Have a 10 mm and 17 mm socket ready. Using a factory banjo bolt, the support bolt, and two new copper crush washers from the upgrade kit, install the oil feed line to the engine block. Have the banjo bolt torqued to 12-14 lb-ft. Ensure that the support boltís done through the oil line tab, in the engine block, and torque to 5-9 lb-ft.
34. With a 10 mm wrench, torque the banjo bolt thatís on the oil inlet to 22-24 lb-ft. Now, grab hold of the 14 mm socket w/ extension and universal joint. Align all bolt holes and make sure that the support bracketís close to the engine block and turbine housing. You might need to loosen the bracket from the engine block to have it aligned with the turbine housing. Screw in the single bolt into the support bracket of the turbine housing. Put some anti-seize paste on the bolt threads for corrosion protection. Torque the bolt thatís retaining the engine block 33-43 lb-ft, ahd the bolt thatís retaining the turbine housing 45-51 lb-ft.
35. Take the downpipe gasket and place it on the downpipe. Using four factory bolts and one factory nut, install this assembly onto the turbine housing with a 14 mm wrench. Make sure that the nut is screwed in with its crush washer underneath the head. Torque all nuts and the bolt 25-51 lb-ft. Afterwards, put some anti-seize paste onto the fastener threads forÖ..wellÖ..you know =).
36. With a 14 mm wrench still in-hand, grab two bolts. Youíll be installing the downpipe support bracket. Align bolt holes in a way where the bracket itself is close to the engine block and downpipe. Then, insert the bolt to the engine block and the other into the downpipe. Torque the engine block bolt to 33-43 lb-ft and the downpipe one to 45-51 lb-ft.
37. With a 12 mm socket and three bolts, install the small heat shield and large heat shield. Note: The lower bolt hole of the small heat shield is shared with the large heat shield. Torque all bolts 17-21 lb-ft.
38. Using a cut-off wheel or hacksaw, trim the heat shield thatís above the inner driveshaft boot on the passengerís side. Trim the right side of the heat shield and up to the first ruffle, or ridge. Donít cut off up to the first ruffle/ridge! Test how it fits. Trim as many times as necessary. Using a file or de-burring tool, de-burr sharp edges (as needed). Once you get the heat shield to fit nicely, stretch the oil line towards it. Use two bolts and a 10 mm socket or wrench for installation. Torque bolts 5-7 lb-ft.
39. Trim the heat shield that attaches to the transfer caseís top. Do so little at a time and test-fit it. This heat shield must not come in contact with the compressor housing, or any part of the new turbo. File, or de-burr, any sharp edges as needed after trimming. Once the final trimming is done, finally install! Tighten bolts to 6-8 lb-ft.
40. Take the front exhaust pipe, along with the factory seal ring and gasket. Also, have two spring bolts, 2 nuts, 14 and 19 mm sockets, and extension ready. Screw in bolts into the downpipe. Ensure that the springs are underneath the heads. Torque to 23-37 lb-ft. Screw in the nuts onto the catalytic converterís studs. Torque those to 37-51 lb-ft. Torque the nuts 30-36 lb-ft, only if the oxygen sensorís removed.
41. With two factory clamps and a set of pliers, install the rubber water line onto the longer factory water line (it wraps around the compressor housing outlet). Then, work on installing the compressor housing support bracket that connects the housing to the engine block, using two bolts and a 14 mm socket. Torque the engine block bolt first and the compressor housing after. Torque both bolts in the same manner; 33-43 lb-ft.
42. Take the factory compressor outlet gasket and place it onto the new compressor outlet flange. Make sure that the tabís facing the rear passenger side. Take the metal compressor outlet elbow (black) and install it to the housing using two factory bolts and a 12 mm socket. Torque 17-21 lb-ft. Then, take the vacuum/boost hose and install to the black metal compressor outlet assembly via a factory clamp. Take the opposite end and install to wastegate actuator via an other factory clamp. Youíll be needing pliers for them clamps.
43. Locate the heat shield thatís covering the both the exhaust manifold and downpipe. Install it via 5 bolts and a 10 mm socket. Torque all of them 6-8 lb-ft. Install the cowl heat shield after that, using three bolts and the 10 mm socket that weíre going to assume you still have on you =).
44. Using 2 bolts, 6 nuts, and a 14 mm socket, install the strut tower bar. Torque the nuts 28-38 lb-ft. Bolts will be getting torqued 14-20 lb-ft.
45. Grab hold of 4 clamps, a set of pliers, and a phillips screwdriver. Alternatively, you can use a 10 mm socket instead of the screwdriver. Install the compressor inlet hose assembly w/ bypass valve. Then, install the compressor outlet hose assembly using two clamps and a phillips screwdriver. A 10 mm socket is still an alternative here.
46. Change filter and engine oil. Drain the oil first, then remove the filter. Replace the drain plug with a new gasket and oil filter. Do this in accordance to the ownerís manual. If youíre having difficulty in locating the oil drain plug, then refer to the rear of the passengerís side of the oil pan. Use factory grade engine oil and apply 4.8 liters, or 5 quarts. Thatís without the filter. 5.2 liters, or 5.32 quarts, with the filter.
47. Refill the engine coolant with 7.5 liters, or 7.9 quarts, of factory grade mixture or equivalent. Once you do that, reconnect the battery using a 10 mm socket or wrench.
48. Start her/him up. Examine for any leaks of any kind. If there are any, then shut her/him off and tighten parts that are sources to the leaks. Continue to do these if problem persists. Once the leak checkís complete and engineís cool, install the upper plastic engine cover and the ones that are underneath the engine compartment. If your carís on jack stands or a lift, then have it lowered. Use two bolts, a 10 mm socket, and plastic clips for this step. You may install the new stickers to increase horsepower output, if applicable though.
49. Get your vehicle re-flashed. You may do it yourself if youíre capable enough. Otherwise, have it done by a professional or hopefully you know of someone that can. Youíll enjoy the best out of the turbo upgrade kit once your rideís re-flashed. We promise! =)

See our listings on Find the best prices We are a member of the MastaMinds Network This site is SSL Secure! We Accept all major credit cards through paypal We are a member of the Better Business Bureau